Friday, November 9, 2012

Falling for South Korea - Seoul (Part 1)

Day 4: Depart for Seoul - Yims Guest House - Changdeokgung Palace & Secret Garden - Itaewon


We left Jeju island for Seoul, taking the 8.45 am Eastar Jet flight.
After an hour or so, we arrived Gimpo airport and took the airport limousine bus to Seoul.
Seriously, it was such a mistake to take this airport limousine bus when it was much easier to take the train.
Actually there was miss-communication (of course due to language barrier) between us and the airport limousine staff. We told him that we need to get to the stop near the Changdeokgung Palace, and he said something else which we thought as something else. The right thing was, we should have got off the bus at Seoul Station, and took the Metro to Anguk or Jongno-sam-ga station. But thanks to the efficient Metro system in Seoul that finally we managed to make our way to Yims Guest House. Word of reminder, try not to take the airport limousine (from Gimpo) if you can reach the hotels by train. Unless those who have huge and heavy luggage, or does not mind spending more, airport limousine might be considered.

Yims Guest House

From Seoul station, we took the Metro Orange line to Jongno-sam-ga, and walked straighnt from exit 7 of the station until the Korean Traditional Food Center (or something like that) was seen on the left across the road, and took the first right junction after seeing the center. And we turned left and walked for 70 meters until the we saw the hotel's signboard. It took us less than 10 minutes to reach Yims Guest House.  I chose this accommodation as it is cheap, easily access and near to various point of attractions. After checking-in, I guess I have made the right choice and I truly like this hotel. It is very neat, clean and tidy, plus there is free Wifi internet access which we can surf the internet freely from our own room. I would recommend this hotel to budget travelers who prefer simple but clean and conveniently located hotel. Check out the website here : Yims Guest House. We checked in our own room and rested.

Around 1 pm, we were ready to see the historical site of Seoul, which is the Changdeokgung Palace & Secret Garden

CHANGDEOKGUNG PALACE & SECRET GARDEN - UNESCO World Heritage Site

We got ourselves combination, integrated tickets for KRW 10,000  at the counter, which covers entrance fees for the 4 palaces (Changdeokgung, Deoksugung, Gyeongbokgung & Changyeonggung) and the Jongmyo shrine. This option is super cheap especially for those who wish to see more than 1 palace. Entry fee for the Secret Garden is inclusive once the integrated ticket is purchased. And by the way, information booklet is available at the entrance, in several languages.

It was pretty disappointing to see that the autumn foliage does not appear as I have expected. But witnessing this grand palace of the past with beautiful carvings and facades, the disappointment disappeared. And on top of that, it was sunny with cloudless, blue sky that was really uplifting my mood. So many view can be recorded with my camera but only the best views were photographed.
Entrance to the Chengdeokgung palace complex
Checked!!
One of a kind, very Korean.


Colorful facade


Around 2.30 pm, a guided tour to the Secret Garden started. Secret Garden is best visited during peak autumn where the atmosphere will be much serene and interesting. This garden is divided to several smaller areas in which each area has its own function. Not much information (or none at all) is available in the information booklet provided, so a guided tour is necessary. The lady delivering the information speaks beautiful American English and she speaks clearly. But I did not bother to engulf every single word she conveyed because I was too preoccupied with the interesting surroundings of the garden.

One of the ponds at the Secret Garden

In 2 weeks time, the color of the foliage will totally change

If only I understand what is written there
A little early for the peak of autumn foliage

One of the building complexes in Secret Garden area


Around 4.30 pm, the guided tour came to an end, and we exited the palace and returned to the hotel. We were thinking of having Korean food so we thought that we could find halal Korean food in Itaewon. So, to Itaewon we went, by Metro.

Itaewon is an international district where most of  international restaurant, pubs and groceries can be found here. There is a mosque but we couldn't locate it as the signage to the mosque was insufficient. So we just walked around and see if there is any halal Korean food available here. Unfortunately, we found only Turkish kebabs outlets, Indian restaurants and several other restaurants serving middle-eastern food. I personally think that it will be a brilliant idea if someone (a Muslim perhaps) makes the effort to learn Korean cooking class, and become the first to open a halal Korean food restaurant in Korea. When traveling to the countries where Islam is not the main religion, it is my preference to have local dishes rather than having common international dishes like kebabs or Indian food. However, it depends on the availability of the halal local food, or else, I will just eat whatever available, edible and of course, halal. In the end, we had no choice but to have Turkish kebabs for dinner.

We did not have enough time to see Itaewon closer since it was already late. So we decided to return to the hotel and had an early sleep


Day 5 : Deoksugung Palace - Hwaseong Fortress

Good morning Seoul!! The day greeted us with sunny, clear, blue sky. So today, we did another visits to historical monuments which were Deoksugung Palace, and Hwaseong Fortress or also known as Suwo Fortress. But before that, we had breakfast, waffle tuna sandwich and green tea latte, at one of the Belgium Waffles outlet at Jongno-sam-ga metro station. It was such a lovely breakfast and it was a good choice (for me) for having green tea latte.


DEOKSUGUNG PALACE

We took the Blue line Metr to City Hall and from there we walked for around 100 meters to the entrance of Deoksugung Palace. Since we have the integrated ticket, we just showed the ticket and the ticket-inspector checked the ticket and tore the removable section of the ticket.

This palace was smaller compared to the Changdeokgung Palace but one thing that made us decided to visit this place was that it organizes the changing if royal guard ceremony at 11 am everyday except Monday. But we were told the ceremony was canceled. It was pretty disappointing but then, the staff at the information booth informed us that the ceremony was substituted with some kind of festivals which we did not what was it. Since we were already there, I guess it was worth to wait and observe what they have planned for the day.

Before that, we walked around the small palace compound and there is another newly constructed building (I think so) which seems to be European. This building is actually the Contemporary Art Museum of Korea, but it was not opened to the public on that day.

The design of the palaces in Seoul is not entirely the same though the concept of the decoration and theme are relatively similar. I still think Changdeokgung Palace has the most beautiful and prominent facade compared to other palaces visited. However, the design of the main hall at Deoksugung Palace and its surrounding compound has its own style and its own way to attract visitors. It was quieter here and a blend of modern and traditional buildings can be seen at certain spots.
Deoksugung Palace, take the subway line 2 to City Hall


Autumn foliage at Deoksugung Palace

While wandering about the palace compound, we met several individuals with different, colourful traditional attire. They were actually preparing for the festival and as it was approaching 11 am, those people started to form a line, and those in yellow attire were seen with different musical instruments.

A parade for some kind of festival

No information on what kind of festival or parade they were having at this point of time


The youngsters and the oldies
It was time to leave Deoksugung Palace for Hwaseong Fortress. So we took the metro to Suwon which took around almost 1 hour from the City Hall station. The fair was KRW 1300. Each time

HWASEONG (SUWON) FORTRESS : UNESCO World Heritage Site


We arrived Suwon around 12.45 pm and we started to feel hungry. Before we proceed to the next point of attraction, we first had light snacks at Dunkin Donut, just to ensure we have the energy that lasts till the ned of the day.  We had donuts and churros for the afternoon and mineral water for re-hydration. There was free wifi internet access so I took the chance to update my current whereabouts through Facebook. After having light snacks, we first got to the information center to inquire some information about Suwon Fortress. I forgot how to get to the information center but the signage was sufficient and one should find it easily. Information leaflet and maps are available and we really need those maps.

We boarded the bus numbered 11 and we were supposed to get off at the Paldalmun stop but my buddy was being so 'clever' that we ended up walking for more almost a kilometer to get to the fortress. And by the way, the T-money was used in every single train journey we made around Seoul.

The Paldalmun is the south gate of this fortress, and sits in the middle of the roundabout of a busy street. It was the structure that I was so long to see but unfortunately, the gate is under conservation and reconstruction process.

There were so many structures at this fortress but I did not drop by every structures because it was quite hot and the sun ray was too strong.
This structure is called Bongdon, or the beacon tower. 

Changyongmun gate, or the East Gate


Dongbun Gonsimdon, or the North-East Observation Tower

After taking a glimpse at Bongdon, we passed-by houses where they seem to plant vegetables and fruits. The one that interested me most was the persimmon trees. I did not know how the tree looked like until I saw it here. The owner of the trees was outside the house when I was photographing the persimmons of the trees, and she went into her house, came out again with 3 persimmons on hand and passed it to me. Wowww!! I was not expecting free persimmons but I regard this as the rizq from Him.

Persimmon trees are everywhere and just at the backyards of the houses within the fortress


Young persimmons..I guess.
We rested at the visitors centre when we got off from the walkway at Changyongmun gate. There was archery for those who wish to try it with some payment. After resting our feet, it was time to return to Seoul.

Another boring 1 hour train journey  and we finally arrived the hotel, bathed and zzzzzzz.


















































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