Amazing India - A Day In The Golden Meadow, Sonamarg

Freezing!! That was what we felt the moment we woke up to see another beautiful day in Kashmir.

It was quite tough for us especially when we need to perform the ablution with the extremely cold tap water. There was hot water but it took some time become hot enough. The same thing happened when we were bathing but at least things became better when the hot water started to function normally. 

Spending time in a very cold weather just speeds up the hunger and we were craving for hot Milo so much. The day seemed gloomy and grey, which was definitely not a good start for the day. Deep in our heart, we keep on hoping and praying the weather would be sunny, or at least no heavy down pour.

Our breakfast was something Kashmiri. We had Kashmiri bread with strawberry jam & butter, Kashmiri style scrambled egg, and Kashmiri saffron tea. I love the tea, but the bread was gristly, almost impossible to be chewed. We thought that we have to dunk it in our Kahsmiri tea, so we did that, and it became soft and really nice to be eaten. 

Breakfast

After breakfast, we got ready for our day trip to Sonamarg. I would say this day trip was far beyond our expectation and did not turn out as what we had in mind earlier. We left Srinagar around 8.30 and our little driver drove us to Sonamarg. It took around 3 hours to reach Sonamarg.
It was all wet along the way but there were several area where the land was all yellow when the mustard flowers bloom. Taking pictures of these beautiful sceneries from a moving vehicle was not a practical way to get nice pictures. So we requested Adil to stop by the road side  for couple of minutes. I felt good to be surrounded by thousand, or maybe millions, of tiny yellow flowers.

The route to Sonamarg was not really a smooth and comfortable one. Pot holes, narrow streets, hair-pin corners and several unpaved roads were nearly got my heart stopped beating for a moment. I guess the Kashmiri should learn to drive calmly rather than driving as if they drive military tanks. But I blame Michael Schumacher for being their inspiration. Though with their way of drivings, accidents seem to be very uncommon here.

It was really difficult to have a quick nap along the way because the views were stunning enough and eye-catching. As the driver drove further and towards uphill, the views gradually changed. We could see snow-capped mountains and hills which I have never expected it, given that it was the third week of April and I though the spring is already in the air. And it came to my mind to ask from Adil on the best month to visit Kashmir. And this young fellow said it is rainy season during March and April. Pffftttt...that's what I thought!! Initially, I thought of bright, glorious sun shine with flawless blue sky but I knew I have dreamt a lot.

Snowy mountains as a backdrop

Mustards here and there

Loving this view a lot

Before the updill driving began, we stopped by at a tea shop. We had milk-tea with a touch of salt (they call it chai here) and it was nice to have hot drinks in a cold weather. There were also tit-bits and Kashmiri snacks but none of us had it (it wass all about reducing expenses for we have another 18 days to go).

The views were becoming whiter, greyer and foggier. As far as I remember, it was quite difficult to adjust the setting to get the desired pictures. Without the clouds and fogs, it would be much easier to snap the pictures, which later I concluded that I need read on photographing in cloudy and foggy day. I did see lots of beautiful pictures taken on the gloomy days, which means it is not impossible to do it.

Approaching Sonamarg

I only know about it until I read this sign.

Flowing river along our way up to Sonamarg

We were getting closer to Sonamarg, but we were still did not think of the views and environment that we might experience. We've seen all the beautiful snow-capped mountains but neither of us have thought of walking (or in our case, horse riding) passing through snow beds. We were told that there would be horse riding but we did not think it was a horse riding in the snow. At first, we decided not to take any horse riding services because we felt that it was expensive and we decided to walk, following the visitors route. Later we were told that it is not impossible to walk as the grounds were muddy (due to the melting snow) and it would take some time to reach the Thajiwas glacier. OK..fine!! We finally changed our mind and opted for the horse riding.

Adil parked the car in the parking area and we got out of the card. It was much colder than what we have expected and my pair of cheeks start to feel numb. But the amazing view of the snow-capped mountain in front of us override the numbing and we could not wait to get closer to the view. We were brought to the horse-riding service provider (most probably friends of Adil) and we bargained on the horse-riding service fee. We got Rps 900 per person which I thought was still expensive. But we kept that aside and got our wind-breaker, a pair Wellington boot and a pony each.

Before the pony ride

It was nice to get on a horse and walk through the snow though we preferred walking. It was a little hard to ensure we would not fall and also to take care of our cameras. But for whatever reasons, it seemed them both of us could not control ourselves taking lots of pictures here and there. Unfortunately, it started to rain lightly and we could not risk our camera being damaged due to rain. I covered my camera with my extra shawl.

I somehow think this pony refuses to carry me on

The view of Thajiwas glacier

Around 25 minutes, we reached an area with several tents.  The moment we arrived there, wind was blowing strong and it was raining pretty heavy. Of course, this worsen the condition where my finger tips start to numb due to the coldness. Like any other touristy places, we were directed into one of the tents, and the gentlemen there offered us some drink (chai or Kashmiri tea). So we thought it was OK to have some hot drink to reduce the freezing air, but as usual, we were asked to pay Rps 60 for a tiny cup of tea/chai. My buddy insisted on paying lesser than that, around Rps 40, and we went off unhappy. Seriously, we did think that the Kashmiris themselves are the ones to smear the name of Kashmir with lots of scams, touts and sucking up tourists money as they like. This is what I hate about Kashmir, otherwise, everything would be perfect and interesting. If there is any plan to come here again, I will always remember to bring my own hot water in a durable flask, rather then spending unnecessarily for the overpriced, ordinary beverage.

To reduce our frustration, we took out our camera and play around with the shutters, enjoying the lovely scenery around the glacier. More tourists were arriving and the place started to overcrowd. When the rain was about to stop, we hoped on our pony and headed back to the starting point. And we considered ourselves lucky for having a good guide. Good in taking care of our back, and good in handling our cameras.

The greens and the whites

We got lost of time and we didn't even know when we arrived Sonamarg and left Sonamarg. I thought that we were already late but we still have 30 minutes before noon. If there was any souvenir shops selling something Kashmiri, I would want to have a look but there is non. And since it was raining heavily again, this was definitely suppressing our mood to spend the time in other nearby areas within Sonamarg. So we decided to leave Sonamarg, and head to Srinagar.

On our way back, we still could not restrain ourselves from taking more pictures. It felt like every single view caught be the eyes was truly impressive that it would be a regret if I did not capture it. The emerald green river flowing along the foot hills was like a gem within the dull rocks and limes.

As a normal human being, our stomach needs to be fed too. And thank you to my buddy for being generous enough and thoughtful enough to bring extra chocolate bars for us, while getting to the proper restaurant to get proper lunch.

After one hour or so, we arrived at vegetarian restaurant. For the first time, my buddy and I tried the Tikka Massala Paneer and paratha bread, which were truly awesome. This was my first having cottage cheese cooked in thick gravy and I'm loving it till today. I love cheese and I love Indian spices which seem to be a perfect combination. If given choices, I would love have paneer for my lunch every alternate days. But I haven't heard anyone recommending good Indian restaurants in Malaysia so I think I need to hold that plan for now.

I was already around 4.30 pm when we reached Srinagar. We were brought to Hazratbal shrine, a place where it is said there a strand of prophet Muhammad's s.a.w hair is placed. At first, everything was full of high expectations and hopes, but later, everything dissolved just like that. Why? Firstly, the Hazratbal shrine was under maintenance, with scaffoldings on the main dome. And secondly, women were not allowed to see the hair display. Is it a discrimination or what? Why didn't they allow women to see it? Too many questions were in my head without any proper explanation due to language barrier. So I was not in mood to take any pictures here but helped my buddy who seemed to have consistency in having photos of hers in every attraction. If only I have that consistency, I would not have to regret for not having pictures of these and those. Hehe...

Amazing India - Srinagar

It has been couple of months since the last time I updated my blog. Burdened with various tasks in the office and annoyed by the not so professional workers, I always want to have a cool escapade out of the country. And after months of planning, not a carefully planned though, I finally get to step foot in India.

I wouldn't have survived this trip without my new travel buddy, Irah. And she is the one to arrange most of the things while I was too hooked up with my job. In this 3 weeks time, there are so many things to admire, and too many things to hate too. Overall, I do not regret visiting India because there are a lot more to explore. We have covered a small part of Jammu & Kashmir state, most cities in Rajasthan, Uttar Pradesh, Maharashtra (Mumbai) and West Bengal (Calcutta). 

Our journey begin with a flight from Kuala Lumpur to Calcutta, by AirAsia (is always and always be my favorite airline). The journey took about 4 hours. When arriving Calcutta, we have gone through a rough night, in the sense there we could hardly get a good sleep due to freezing temperature at the airport. On top of that, we were unable to lie down because of the armrests on each individual seats. Calcutta airport is a newly renovated airport, which means no shop lots (they do have but very tiny one), no restaurants (but minute cafes which got me claustrophobic at times) and duty free. It is simply boring but I bet that in couple of months, thing might be a lot better.

We did not plan to overnight in the hotel because we thought that we would waste several hundred rupees. Well, it is worth going through the rough night because something amazing is awaiting us the next day.

Found this at one of the cafetarias at departure.

The next day, we took a flight to Srinagar, transiting in New Delhi. It is as convenient as any other flights I used to board on and this overcomes the worried that I have in mind for quite some times. I have booked the ticket from CheapTicket and as conclusion, bookings through this website is reliable. We flew with JetKonnect. One thing about this flight, it does not serve any meals to the passengers.

Remembering that this is India, all outbound passengers will have to undergo somewhat tedious security check. This can be very annoying sometimes, depending on what are the artefacts we brought in our hand-carry.

Once we boarded the flight, an early morning flight actually, we speak no more but shut our eyes, for we haven got a proper sleep the night before. It took around 2 hours, from Calcutta to Delhi, and another 1.5 hour from Delhi to Calcutta. And we slept 3/4 of the journey. We were lucky enough to wake up half an hour before the aircraft touch-down at Srinagar airport. The views of the snowy mountains look so stunning and breathtaking. I guess this is the time where my camera shutters start to do its job. However, it will be much more satisfying if the aircraft windows are not scratched and non-greasy.

Views from the aircraft upon approaching Srinagar airport

We touched down at Srinagar airport around 9.50 am and temperature was below 10'C. I sense trouble because we wore tropical. But luckily we packed our sweater/jacket and wool socks in our hand carry. At the airport, there is another form meant for international tourist and there is no way one can escape that process. Oh and by the way, Srinagar airport is pretty tiny and dark, and several armed soldiers/polices are securing the airport parameter accordingly. When we exited the airport, there is an enforcement officer (looks like a policeman) approaching us and asked us questions, these and thats. What I can deduce from the 'interrogation' is that, this officer is responsible to take care of the incoming international tourists to Srinagar, at least, within the airport compound, from various scammers and touts waiting at the exits. The officer is willingly (but more like insisting) to call my contact, though I told him I am not so sure of his mobile no. Since no one picked us up and failure to reach my contact, the officer suggested that we head to the J & K Tourisy Information Centre and sort out things from there. So we took a cab (a jeep actually) to the city.

Actually, I did try to make friends with several Kashmiri through Couchsurfing.net. I did manage to meet one and he gave me his mobile no. But due to several reasons, my friend and I decide to arrange our trip in Kashmir, pretty much on our own and we can't rely on my contact here. Please be aware that Jammu & Kashmir state is full of touts and scams. The best way to minimize scams and touts here is to get to the J&K Tourist Information Center. Get them to contact whoever contacts you have in Kashmir and they will check and confirm whether your contacts are trustworthy or not. Then again, once you step out of the information centre,  you are vulnerable to different kind of scamming and touts which you may not realize until you leave J & K.

Waiting in confusion

Once we reach the information centre, we manage to get various information especially on accommodations and do's and don't's in Kashmir. And the two sweet ladies helped us book a houseboat (I THOUGHT IT SHOULD BE BOATHOUSE!!) at Dal Lake. My buddy is interested in staying at Veena Palace Houseboat as the price is cheap. Initially we thought that it costed Rps 500 per room, but then...well, we leave this for the later part. We left the information centre and took the auto to Dal Lake. It costed around Rps 50 for two.

Once we arrive at gate 7 of Dal Lake, we are greeted by Mr. Firdous, the owner of the Veena Palace houseboat. We dump our bags in the Shikara, and head to our houseboat. It was sunny and cool day and of course, happy along the way to our houseboat.

After less than 15 minutes shikara ride, we arrived at our houseboat. It was a decent houseboat, unlike the other houseboat we have seen along the way to ours, with intricate carvings, chandeliers and carved doors. It doesn't matter because how beautiful the carving, we can settle for boathouse with sufficient facilities, clean and reasonably comfortable. We rested for around 1 hour before the owner came to discuss the options we have during our stay in Srinagar.

From the discussion, we agreed that Mr. Firdous arrange our trips along our stay in Srinagar, from meals to transportation and trips, ie. all inclusive package. He quoted us Rps 10,900 per person which we thought, at that time, was cheap. So without further a due, we settled for it. We also told him that we want to buy some souvenirs ie. papier mache, and perhaps several pashminas and cloths. He convinced is that to get the best price and quality for each item, we should buy things directly from the manufacturer, not from the wholesalers, bazaars or markets. So we thought he did make his point. And like I said, the truth came later.

After making a deal, he leaves us so that we can do whatever we want to do. And I realize that the weather is changing, the sky turns greying and it's getting even cooler. And in our bedroom, there are two blankets which are think and comfortable enough to warm us. And we are glad that he prepared an electric warmer too.

After an hour or so, our lunch is ready. We dig-in like we have not eaten for couple of days. The food served is simple it tasted really awesome. I enjoy munching the fresh vegetables (onions, tomatoes, carrots and Kashmiri raddish) with the cabbages cooked in Indian style and lentils with gravy. We feel a lot better and ready to live the day to the fullest.

Simple dish but very tempting

The daughter of Mr. Firdous

After lunch, we hop on the Shikara to the main road. The short shikara ride has indeed gave me some time to appreciate the enticing Dal Lake. It is nice to look on the overall surroundings of Dal Lake. After a few minutes, we reach gate 7. Our driver, 'Adil, has already waited for our presence and ready to bring us to the attractions of the day. We are brought around Srinagar, particularly to visit Pari Mahal (Palace of the Fairies), Nishat Bagh and Indira Gandhi Tulip Garden. And we were brought to one of Mr. Firdous's relative house for the authentic Kashmiri pashmina and  embroideries.

Only in Dal Lake, the shikara

The Pari Mahal, the tulip garden and all the Mughal gardens are just a mere minutes drive from gate 7, though getting to the Pari Mahal, it is almost a nauseatic drive especially when you have an 'F1' driver. Sharp turns and blind corners are not uncommon and got me goose bumps at times. Yaikksss!!!

I can't remember the entrance fee to get to Pari Mahal, because all is inclusive in the package offered by Mr. Firdous. When reaching this place, the both of us are like 'wowwwwww', impressed with the view of Srinagar from the palace.

What will it be like if sun is shining brightly here?

I thought fairies are much smaller than we humans.

In less than an hour, we go downhill and head to Nishat Bagh. It is too congested and I am not in mood at all to take pictures when, literally speaking, there are more people than the space in the garden itself. Again fee is imposed to enter this ordinary garden, which I can't recall the price.

And finally, we reach to the most most awaited, the most attractive and the most rewarding attraction, the Indira Gandhi Tulip Garden. SUPER-AWESOME is the only word I can describe about this garden. This garden is the largest tulip garden in Asia and tulips bloom in various colours. Of course, people will definitely compare this tulip garden with the one in Keukenhof, Holland but I believe, I. G Tulip garden has its own charms. It has mountains s backdrop  and surrounded by lush green trees which is totally different from the one in Keukenhof. The two of us took pictures like there is no tomorrow and the advantage of having digital camera, we don't have to worry about spaces to store our photos. One thing that we feel a little upset is that, visitors are not allowed to enter the patches, which we are dying to have pictures of ourselves surrounded by the tulips. I understand that is doable in Keukenhof. Hmmm....let see what would be my plan for spring next year. :p

Varieties of tulips, but the only me in this world.

At this point of time, how I wish I have my another half be present, appreciate these glorious moment and beauty of this colourful view together. I guess every normal lady will have this thought whenever she sees beautiful things like this. For flower lovers like me,well, fortunately tulips cannot strive the humid and warm climate of Malaysia, otherwise, several individual stalks might have gone.

The pinky tulip

" Plucking of flowers is prohibited, but the lady there is strictly prohibited' - Irah

Pari Mahal seems to be very mystical when viewed from this tulip garden. And now only I understand why they call it palace of the fairies.

I'm loving this a lot. I mean A LOTT!!

After an hour, it is time to leave this beautiful garden and make way to Mr. Firdous's cousin which god only knows where. As with other Kashmiri, all guests are served with almond cookies and Kashmiri kahwa (delicious Kashmiri tea with saffron). His cousin showed us various embroidered cloth, from cushion covers, blankets to material for clothings. They are all lovely but I doubt the prices are the cheapest offered. But I insist on getting a pair of embroidered cloth, in case we do not have time for small shopping.

The prices for the items are as following (just a guideline)
1) Original Pashmina (they claim it is original) - Rps 2500 to Rs 5500
2) Embroidered cloth - Rps 1200 to Rps 2200
3) Pashmina (other quality) - Rps 1500 to Rps 2500

Those prices are definitely not the prices I am expecting for because I know it can be a lot cheaper than this. After satisfying ourself with a set of embroidered cloths, we paid for the cloths, and leave the house. 'Adil drove us a local tailor (guided by another guy) to have our cloths sewn as we wish.

On decision making mode.

My mum bought one of this before but I can't afford this. Heavy and expensive.

When the sun has fully set, we arrived gate 7 and return to our houseboat. It was much noisier on the main road, but quieter as we ride towards the inner of Dal Lake. I am not sure if it is wise to stay on the houseboats facing the main road as it is really annoying and uncomfortable with all the unnecessary honking and shouting. Lucky that we don't have to experience that.
The houseboats look colourful at night with all those coloured pendaflour lights and chandeliers.

Well, I think that is the end of our short, first day in Srinagar. Our dinner awaited us and we eat till full, review all the pictures taken today and...lights off!!